Domaine Ste Michelle 1998 Columbia Valley Luxe

Pale golden color with small bubbles. Looks like nothing else so much as mass-market American lager, but raises less of a head.

That unsettling resemblance does not, thankfully, extend to the aroma, which is toasty citrus with distinct oak. As the glass warms, an appealing floral note emerges.

Oak's quite apparent in the flavor, it's the first thing to greet the palate. Afterwards, there's lemon and grapefruit, sweetness at the end. As the floral smell develops so do hints of peach and pears flavors.

The oak wants to be better integrated, as it is it stands too alone, too much what defines this wine.

I prefer the $14.99 Blanc de Noirs to this $19.99 bottling.